Accra, the capital city of Ghana, is located on the southern coast of the Gulf of Guinea, which is part of the Atlantic Ocean. It has a complicated and tragic colonial history and was largely formed from the merging of distinct settlements around Fort James (British), Ussher Fort (Dutch), and Fort Christiansborg (Danish). It was the capital of the British Gold Coast between 1877 and 1957, and since independence has transitioned into a modern and vibrant metropolis. The capital’s architecture reflects its complex history, ranging from colonial buildings to modern skyscrapers to more traditional structures and bustling markets. With the Government’s concerted efforts of encouraging Africans of the diaspora to return to and invest in the continent, Accra’s popularity has increased significantly in recent years.

Over the last two years, I’ve been fortunate to visit Ghana quite a few times for work, with most of my assignments taking place in the Eastern Region. But due to the awkward timing of my flights, I’m always guaranteed at least one night’s stay in the capital on arrival, and a full day on my way out. I’ve made the most of these hours, always making sure I run or walk, and as a result, I’ve seen so much of the city including Black Star Gate, Jubilee House, the National Theatre, the Polo Club, shopping malls and markets, as well as the beautifully painted road intersections.

On my most recent visit, I was ecstatic to learn there would be a race – The Accra Intercity Homowo Marathon, on Friday, 4th of August – Founder’s Day, and the day after I completed my assignment. It wouldn’t be easy – I’d have to organise a race ticket from afar, get to Accra on the bumpy road from Gomoa Fetteh on Thursday night, make my way to the race start, and collect my race number… so at times I didn’t quite believe I’d manage it. But the thought of racing in a new country, made me so determined to get to the start, even with the logistical complexities.

The race was scheduled to start at 05:30am which made sense given the intense heat and humidity in Accra. I woke up very early, ordered an Uber and at 05:10am I was at the Accra Sports Stadium. When I arrived, it was extremely quiet. I met a couple of runners who kindly escorted me to the tent where race numbers were to be collected but no one had arrived yet. When they eventually arrived, I was given my number and a red vest. The number was a sticker that I peeled off and placed on my Gaborone Striders City Marathon shirt. I folded the vest into my waist bag which also carried some cash, tissues, a Botswana flag and paracetamol.

FIVE Things I Loved About the Race

1/ It was very affordable. I was shocked when I saw the prices – 20 Ghana Cedis (US$1.77) for 5km, 30GH₵ (US$2.66) for 10km, and 50GH₵ (US$4.43) for 21km, and this included a race vest! These prices are unheard of in Botswana where most 10km races cost at least 5x more! As I sat on my concrete block waiting for the race to start, I immediately noticed that these relatively low prices allowed for a much broader socio-economic spectrum. Alongside people with high-end shoes and outfits, were several more with far less fancy gear, but all just as excited to be there. It made me realise just how many people are left out when races cost more than many can afford. And it begs the question – how much talent is overlooked because of high costs? Of course, heavily reduced rates also mean you need a lot more sponsors and volunteers, otherwise the quality of a race is affected, which I will get to in a bit.

2/ It was inclusive: As the minutes ticked by, I continued to observe everything around me. Initially, I panicked as I only saw wiry runners in small shorts and vests, but as more runners streamed into the stadium, I noticed the inclusivity – from small children donning their 5km vests to students in university kits to families and fitness groups of all ages, shapes and sizes. As I waited, several roller skaters entered the stadium in single file with great finesse and flare, and with race numbers! There were also quite a few athletes in wheelchairs, and I later learnt there were runners from the deaf community. By around 7am, most of us were resigned to waiting aimlessly, but a group of about 20 athletes started a vigorous warm-up which involved short sprints and a variety of dynamic exercises. We were all relieved when the race announcer called the Half Marathoners to the start. It suddenly struck me just how warm it was.

3/ Interesting Route. The route started at the Accra Sports Stadium and finished at Mantse Agbona in Jamestown. The gantry for the Half Marathoners was about a hundred metres down the road from the main entrance of the stadium. As the Half Marathoners made their way to the start, the rest of us waited until a race announcer directed the 10km runners to the back of the stadium, on the main road next to the Access Bank Head Office.

As we started in the financial hub of the city, we ran past several top-notch hotels, Government departments and ministries, embassies, hospitals and clinics, and banks. Then about halfway, we ran past the Stadium again, Black Star Gate and Square, and made our way towards the oldest district in Accra – Jamestown. On this section, we passed a market which was hidden behind a temporary structure which notified the public of some new developments, the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park as well as several hawkers selling water, drinks and produce including a cart laden with coconuts and a wheelbarrow with an enormous pile of colourful bags!

As we got to Jamestown, the more modern shine of the city was replaced by much older buildings in various states of disrepair, including churches, restaurants, some corrugated iron shacks, stalls and colonial structures such as Ussher Fort. I later learnt that Ussher Fort was built by the Dutch in 1649 and was one of three forts that Europeans built in the region during the 17th century. The fort was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 because of its significance in the history of European colonial trade and exploitation in Africa.

Running through Jamestown was quite the experience. Most of my senses were quite forcefully stimulated by the sight of colourful murals, traders selling goods, trucks offloading stuff, the open drains; by the distinct smell of sweat and fish and something that reminded me of magwinya (fried dough balls); and by the sound of animated conversations, jovial chatter and laughter. This road eventually made its way to what I think was a bridge, and shortly after this, we saw the finish and just behind it – Jamestown Lighthouse! The original lighthouse, built at James Fort in 1871, was replaced in the 1930s by this tower, which stands at 28m (92 ft) tall.

As we came through the finish, we were given a number and then ushered into an open area where many athletes had already arrived and were taking photos or sitting under the shade.

A race official wrote my name and distance down and offered me a seat in the shaded area. Two men immediately greeted me and asked if I was from around here. I told them I was from Botswana, to which, they exclaimed, “You came all the way here for this race?” I told them not quite, but I couldn’t be in Accra and not run a local race, right? They both agreed! Given how hot and humid the race was, and with the undulating terrain, it was a tough race for me, but I could not have asked for a better route to truly capture the essence and heart of Accra.

4/ Great Atmosphere: Although there were not many supporters especially in the city centre, I loved the encouragement from bystanders as we entered Jamestown. Several traders, shoppers and children cheered us on, some clapping and others even singing songs. Some people shouted, “Faster, faster” but in an encouraging tone rather than a condescending one; whilst others shouted the universal and not always accurate, “Almost there!”

5/ Meeting Other Runners: When we started, the majority of runners quickly disappeared from sight. Holding up the back of the pack was a small group of slower runners and walkers. I was in the lonely section between the two groups, together with another woman. We didn’t talk much, other than to verify we were going in the right direction, but it was comforting to have her by my side. I pushed slightly ahead at the point where the 5km runners joined our route. It was here I met a young 15-year-old girl called Victoria who kept me company for the remainder of the race, and confidently told me we were on the right route when I told her I thought we were lost. When we got to the end, she was the one who took this photo for me, and I was so grateful!

I spent quite some time with her and learnt about what she was doing in school, where she was from and her future aspirations. She was a Godsend and I told her so when we finally parted ways on our walk back to the Stadium. As we waited to hear if there would be any finisher medals, I also enjoyed the interactions I had with other runners. One interaction was quite unexpected though, a Half Marathoner walking past me, suddenly held my hand and said she needed somewhere to rest, before collapsing, writhing on the dusty ground as runners quickly poured water over her as she started heaving and yelling that she needed to vomit. It’s amazing what we put our bodies through – and once again, I was just in awe of all those who had finished quickly as she had obviously done, but also those who came much later.

Where Can The Race Improve?

This was only the second time this race has been held and as such some of the glitches can be quickly forgiven. Also, with such affordable race entry costs, some of these aspects were possibly overlooked due to lack of funding and manpower. But for the race to gain popularity and respectability which is its intention, according to one of the sponsors who spoke, these are critical areas that will need to be addressed:

Very Late Start. We were scheduled to start at 05:30 SHARP but the 10km runners only set off at 08:10! Given that Accra is quite hot and humid, this delayed start was not acceptable and caused unnecessary anxiety and confusion. Also, as we waited, we were in the middle of a main road; and as the city woke up, we became quite an obstacle to passing vehicles.

No Signage/ Poor Marshalling. At the start of the race, we were given oral directions, which were probably useful to runners who were well acquainted with the city. But I had no clue where the buildings/ intersections were. About 1km in, I realised that my running partner was similarly clueless and kept asking me, “Did they pass here?” We then resorted to asking security guards and hawkers whether they had seen any runners on the road. So, we were never quite confident that we were on the right path. At the end of the race, I realised there were many local runners who had been equally confused. Putting up clear directional signs and having well-positioned marshals makes a world of difference and goes a long way in ensuring that all runners follow the right route [Please note: The big intersections had police officers directing us, which was helpful, but it was the in between that was very confusing].

Using Stickers for Race Numbers. Initially, I thought this was genius! No need for safety pins. But with the humidity, many numbers came unstuck, and were strewn across the road. After battling with mine, I stuck it round my bottle. So, good old-fashioned pins may be the way to go.

Limited Medals. Given the low race entry costs, I understand that it probably wasn’t possible to get finisher medals for everyone. One of the race organisers was very kind to ensure that I got a race medal as I had travelled far BUT most people were very disappointed by the lack of finisher medals. In fact, many of us just hung around at the end waiting to find out if there would be finisher medals. One way I think this situation can be handled is through better communication – if there are no finisher medals, this information should be made very clear when advertising the race. This way there are no expectations unless you know you are in the top tier.

Even with these hiccups, I am so grateful that I participated in this race – it was just further affirmation that running is the best way to see a city! I absolutely loved seeing Accra from different angles and perspectives – from the financial hub with its tall skyscrapers and carefully manicured surroundings to the less affluent but colourful, pulsating and vibrant Jamestown. As I pounded the pavement for 70 minutes, I got a great feel of the city’s unique spirit, pulse, culture, and personality. THANK YOU to the race organisers for giving me this experience and for the wonderful WELCOME I felt from several people during the race.

Have you run in Accra, Ghana? Have you ever signed up for a race during a work trip? Have you Uber-ed to a race before? Have you ever felt you were lost in a city race?

I’m joining Kooky Runner and Zenaida on their link up, Tuesday Topics. Be sure to check out their blogs.