I had several incredible travel experiences in 2023, mostly for my work in Ghana, where I grabbed every opportunity to run, walk, hike and even race! My last visit to Ghana was in August and by then I thought there’d be no more travel in 2023. But as luck would have it, in October, I found myself applying for a visa to Türkiye! I was so elated by the news that I couldn’t even maintain my typical professional, straight, “No, I’m not really excited” face when my boss broke the news to me. I mean, Türkiye? Istanbul? I was over the moon!

Aside from a few history classes on the Ottoman Empire back in high school, I had little to no knowledge of Istanbul. From a quick Wiki search I learnt that Istanbul is the largest city in Türkiye, straddling the Bosphorus Strait, the boundary between Europe and Asia. With a population of over 15 million, it is considered the country’s economic, cultural and historic capital, and is the most populous city in Europe! I knew I was guaranteed a unique experience given its rich history, cuisine and culture. But let me cut to the chase. I was most excited that I’d be running in a new city, country and continent. I could already see my new hashtag, #IRunEurope. It’s the small things, right? So, in my bag went my bright pink running shoes and my blue, black and white Botswana travel socks.

What I Experienced Running in Istanbul

The Turkish Flag Adorned Several Buildings. I arrived the day after Republic Day which is a public holiday commemorating Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s proclamation on 29th October 1923 that Turkey would be a Republic. Last year it was a special celebration as it was the centennial year of the Republic and on every street that I ran on, there were several big and small Turkish flags hanging proudly from residential and office windows, some secured to lampposts and others traversing the busy streets and intersections.

On my day off, I visited the Taksim Republic Monument which was erected in 1928 as a commemorative sculpture to honour the foundation of the Turkish Republic. Standing at 11 metres tall and made from bronze and various stones, it is one of the most photographed structures of Istanbul due to its location. Taksim Square is considered to be the beating heart of Istanbul and is where several celebrations, protests and official ceremonies take place.

Bustling Streets with Stores, Bazaars and Markets. We were staying at the Hilton Hotel Bomonti which was an EXTRAORDINARY experience. With 829 rooms and 34 floors it is the largest Hilton in Europe and the biggest hotel in Türkiye. It stands directly opposite the famous 19th-century Bomonti Brewery. This is where all my runs started. I quickly discovered that Bomonti is a bustling cultural hub and business district. Its streets are jam packed with apartment blocks, towering office buildings, big stores, small bazaars with antiques, jewellery, ceramics and clothes artfully arranged on shelves and racks, colourful organic food markets, and several coffee shops and eateries.

I ran several times that week and each time I got incredibly lost! I was so thankful to the old women walking their dogs, the men smoking on street corners and the shop owners, who helped me navigate back to my hotel each time using Turkish, some English and lots of hand gestures.

Café Culture. The other thing that struck me as I ran down the different streets were all the cafés. More specifically, I was surprised by the low chairs outside the cafés where men were gathered drinking coffee/ tea and smoking. When I had the chance to sightsee later that week, I noticed all kinds of people in cafés, young and old, reading books or engaged in lively conversations. But on these morning runs, I only noticed men at these gatherings. From my research, I can only assume these were “kahvehane,” or Turkish tea houses which apparently are the “heartbeats of local neighbourhoods, where men gather to discuss politics, sports, and the latest news over endless glasses of tea”. I couldn’t get a photo as it felt too invasive so this cute little market/ café will have to suffice!

Street Art. Another wonderful thing which I noticed was all the street art, some quite elaborate, some neat and others less so. According to this blog, Istanbul’s street art culture has grown considerably in the last few years, especially with the success of the Mural Istanbul festival, which has allowed for local and international artists to paint all over Kadiköy, a district in Istanbul.

All the Cats! This absolutely SHOCKED me! Within the first few minutes of my run, I spotted my first one, then another, then a third, and after a while I lost count! They were all shades – ginger, tabby, tortoiseshell, tuxedo, grey, and just everywhere – perching on a pillar, sunbathing on a motorbike, walking on a ledge, sitting in a store window, eating from a bowl on a random street corner or walking nonchalantly across the road. Most of them were really friendly and one even rubbed up against my leg as I took a photo. And then the most surprising observation of all, people carrying cats on their chests in baby-like carriers! I read somewhere that “Istanbul belongs to the cats” and indeed it does!

As I ran on the bustling streets of this vibrant metropolis, I was in absolute awe of all the different sights and sounds. The little I saw on my runs in Bomonti and what I later discovered when I went sightseeing further afield was that the past and present beautifully co-exist in this unique city. There’s an impressive blending of tradition and modernity that is evident on every street. This blog has probably not done it justice, but it was quite simply an extraordinary experience and I’m so happy I had this most random of opportunities!

I hope you enjoyed running with me in Istanbul! What surprised you about my experience? What would you have enjoyed seeing? Have you ever visited Türkiye?

I’m joining two fabulous runners, Kim from Running on the Fly and Deborah from Confessions from a Mother Runner for their link up – the “Weekly Run Down”.